When you walk in Roksanda’s glorious shop on Mayfair’s Mount Street, the first thing that hits you is the colour of the clothes. Words like “vibrant” don’t quite capture the feeling. It’s much more like you’ve walked into a distinctive kaleidoscopic landscape painted by an assured artist — gradually enticing you, as you finger the fabrics and examine the unusual cut of the clothes, to try something on while knowing that, should you actually buy a dress, you will be sharing Roksanda’s intoxicating vision to the fortunate members of the human race who happen to see you in that dress.
To characterise the designs of Belgrade native Roksanda Ilincic, Fashion Tours London is unusually happy to quote directly from Roksanda’s own website as the words ring true: “stand out colour blocking, sculptural shapes, modern, distinctive cuts and her innovative use of fabrics and unerring attention to detail”. Imagine sunset peach against deep sea turquoise and black; or orangey reds against the palest light blue and rose tones; or, for autumn, billowing magenta and caramel brown dresses that cover the wearer with strong, energetic beauty.
Established in 2005, Roksanda’s label has never wavered from reflecting her interest in art and architecture. That interest is evident in the clothes, accessories and shop itself, designed in 2014 by the renowned British architect, Daniel Adjaye. Her collections have been inspired by artists such as Mel Bochner, Josef Albers, and sculptors Julia Dault and Niki de Saint Phalle. Her latest takes a nod from Le Corbusier’s tapestries, including his line drawings, rubberised and sprayed onto floating tulle dresses. On our last visit, the clothes were complemented by shoes by Malone Souliers and pottery by Christine Holland, created around the intriguing idea of what cats say to dogs.